Nubian Ibex

A birthday picture

2009-09-26T11:53:00.000-07:00

With Adri and Juliet (my birthday twin!)

Go West!

2009-09-26T10:54:00.000-07:00

Hello again from a relatively peaceful Kampala - all seems back to Normal after the rioting has subsided, at least on the surface. At least 90 rioters have been arrested and put to trial (but no sign of any military personnel facing the same strict treatment, even those responsible for the killing of unarmed civilians...)

But rioting and tensions aside, the past 2 weeks or so have been great - Adri arrived at the start of last week, and after a couple of "chill out" days in Kampala we headed west to see some of the beautiful sights Uganda has to offer, guided by Michael of TUSH Adventures and starting with Murchison Falls National Park, where the River Nile is squeezed into a narrow gorge ending in one of the most impressive water falls I have ever seen before starting its long journey to Egypt and the Mediterranean Sea. Aside from the amazing views, we were also lucky enough to meet elephants, hippos, lions (at close range!), giraffes, various types of antelope, (one) crocodile, buffaloes and some rare and wonderful birds (photos soon!). We then continued to Kibale Forest (monkeys, monkeys and more monkeys but sadly no chimps!) as well as Semliki National Park and its hot springs. It was a much needed break for us both after a hard few months!

But not all the sights were beautiful and uplifting - having visited the impressive hot springs at Semliki National Park, we then headed to the Pygmy settlement in the nearby village - one of the most depressing experiences I have had in a long time. The Pygmy people, traditionally forest dwellers relying on hunting and gathering, have been undergoing "resettlement" since the late '80s out of conservation areas and into permanent village life, without being provided with the agricultural or other skills that would integrate them into the Ugandan cash economy and Ugandan society.

It's hard to describe how I felt during this brief visit, apart from wishing I was elsewhere. I don't know what was worse - feeling sorry for the people who were either drunk or high on opium or desperately shoving hand-made souveniers in our faces, or the feeling of almost revulsion I felt at being near this worse kind of poverty - the kind that makes you want to close your eyes and pretend it doesn't exist, or even blame them for their own pathetic existence. I wish I knew how to describe it better but I am still lost for words.

Well, that is all for now - I promise photos are coming soon (since I had a gifted photographer with me at all times, these are bound to be lovely!)

Freedom of Silence

2009-09-11T06:50:00.000-07:00

Day 2 of the Kampala riots and apart from less cars on the road, all is quiet in this part of town. Only news reports of 10 dead (including a 14 year old student: http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/news/Lubiri_student_Killed_passenger_bus_burnt_91141.shtml, burnt busses and closed roads let us know that this mess is still happening. I'm being a good girl and keeping well out of it in this quiet neighbourhood. I have been trying to find out how is it that Government can justify shooting unarmed civilians using live bullets, but people just shake their heads. Of course, it makes no sense.

Continuing yesterday's theme, the Government today closed 3 more radio stations, and I quote: "President Yoweri Museveni, in a pre-recorded television address aired yesterday, accused CBS FM of engaging in an active campaign against the NRM government. Although he admitted to only listening to CBS FM once, he said he was shocked by the insults heaped against him. He said his government would not suffer any more abuse against them". It must be nice to be able to just close down a radio station for insulting you...

Royalists vs. Loyalists - the Kampala version

2009-09-10T11:13:00.000-07:00

Never a boring moment in Kampala, as I learnt today when while in a workshop (luckily NOT in the town centre) we received news of rioting on the streets of central Kampala, a result of tensions between Baganda Kingdom supporters and the central Government. 2 People have been confirmed dead.

Here is a link to the most up-to-date news report I could find:
http://www.monitor.co.ug/artman/publish/news/DEVELOPING_STORY_Violence_breaks_out_in_Kampala_city_centre_91102.shtml

In true "democratic" fashion (maybe as a welcome gesture for Avigdor Liebermann who is in Kampala today), the government used military forces to close down a couple of radio stations - either to prevent more rioting, or to prevent the media from reporting police violence - you can take your pick.

I was lucky enough to avoid experiencing any of the rioting - the only effect was being stuck in traffic for 2.5 hours instead of the 15 minutes the journey would have taken... not such a bad thing all things considered.

Will keep you posted!

Y

Check out Adri's great Blog:

2009-08-31T10:50:00.001-07:00

http://www.artefactoblog.com/

:)

News from the deep end...

2009-08-31T10:08:00.000-07:00

Yes, I know, I promised more frequent updates... but having been away in far away (and connectivity-challenged places) and then buried under work over the past few weeks, I have been struggling to find the time. I hang my head in shame.

So, a quick update:

Spent 2 weeks travelling in Western Uganda - visiting WaterAid partners and gathering data for the NGO water and sanitation annual performance report (link here soon for all you water and sanitation geeks! I know you're out there!) which I have been writing on behalf of the Uganda Water and Sanitation NGO Network. The journey took me to the beautiful Fort Portal at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, complete with tea plantations, beautiful views, forests and crater lakes, then through Queen Elizabeth National Park to Mbarara, Kabale and Kisoro (the latter involving a 5 hour journey on a narrow and bumpy road - in each direction! Interestingly, the road is being tarmacked by Solel Bone, the Israeli parastatal - we get everywhere!).

Came back to Kampala last weekend and have worked non-stop since then to get the report ready - and although I haven't had a day off in 3 weeks and the black shadows under my eyes would have earned me the nickname of 'panda' (if only there were pandas in Uganda), it has been an interesting time and I have learned so much!

But as much as I enjoy work, I think I have earned a break - Adrián is coming over in mid September and we will spend a couple of weeks enjoying the sights and sounds, but most importantly, eachother's company! :)

So that's all for now! Just wanted you to know I am still alive, and if you haven't heard from me in a while, it's nothing personal.....

Much love, till next time :)

...And some traditional dancing!

2009-07-25T02:54:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone, here is a video of a traditional Banyankole dance I took last week at the wedding I attended - hope you manage to see the beauty of the dance despite the shoddy camera-work!
I have been told that the men are meant to be cattle hereders, and the women represent the cows, hands held up to signify the long horns of the Western Ugandan cattle. The dance represents the importance of cattle in Western Ugandan culture. Enjoy!

URL; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDCuzOgrwek

Some pictures at last!

2009-07-21T10:05:00.000-07:00

Hello from Kampala - and finally some pictures to share with you a bit of what I've been up to lately... mostly busy with work but still some time to enjoy the sights every now and again! More coming your way soon, even videos (connection speed allowing!)

Enjoy!

The ugliest bird in the world? Possibly... Marabou Storks on the roof opposite my window

At a Western Ugandan traditional wedding ceremony with a friend - and wearing the traditional "Suka" (and yes, that's a purse I'm holding...)

Fisherman on Lake Victoria, at the source of the River Nile in Jinja

With my back to Lake Victoria and facing the Nile...

Ndere Troup musicians, Ndere Centre, Ntinda Kampala

Hand pump installed by NETWAS outside a school in Wobulenzi, as part of a water sector governance and accountability project

A Muzungu* in Kampala

2009-06-21T12:15:00.000-07:00

I know it's been a while since the last post, but I thought I'd wait until I had something to say before I put up the next one, and I do, so here it is:

I think I'm in trouble. I think I'm in trouble because there's a serious chance that this country is starting to get under my skin. Despite the fact that of course it takes time to get used to a new place, especially if you so clearly stick out (and even more so if you have freckles, believe me!), this place is growing on me more and more each day. And having just sat through 3.5 hours of traditional dancing and the local version of stand-up comedy, I love it even more! (check out these links for a 'taster' of the amazing Ndere Troupe: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0gVoL78NIY and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz-1YTi2_9s)

Generalising about this country will do it injustice, as it is so varied - in terrain, language, ethnicity, culture and history - but certain things seem to be held in common by everyone I have come across: smiles, warm (and very long) handshakes, hospitality, and most importantly, the great Ugandan sense of humour, as well as boundless pride in being Ugandan. It is so infectious it makes you wish you were Ugandan, just so that you could feel this proud too.

I would tell you about my work, but I doubt many of you want to hear about my analysis of the Ugandan national budget... if you really are interested, do send me an email and I'll be happy to oblige; otherwise I'll refrain from applying a collective punishment by posting anything about it here. Very considerate of me, don't you think??

Photos/videos/stuff coming your way soon, I promise!

* Muzungu = White Person, and is what kids/market sellers shout at you as you go by. Actually, one seller showed originality by calling me "Jennifer Lopez"... to which I replied that I believe my backside is smaller than hers!

Location, location, location...

2009-06-05T12:09:00.000-07:00

Hi again from Kampala, and hope this finds you all well.

Just a quick update to say all is well and apologise for yet again letting the emails pile up - I promise I will get to reply individually at some point! (Rachel, I guess you are half way across the world by now, safe landing in Oz!).

Things are slowly starting to fall into place as I start to get used to this brand new place. The last couple of days have been centred around trying to find a place to live in, which has not been as easy as you may think! I ended up opting for a place just a couple of minutes walk from the office, having decided to play it safe and stay in the relatively posh (sort of the Richmond of Kampala, if you know what I mean) area of Bugolobi for reasons of ease and security. So tomorrow morning I shall be checking out of the hotel and moving in to my own digs for the next 5 months.

The benefit to all this house-hunting has been the chance to explore the city for the first time. It is hard to describe the variety of living standards you encounter here, and just how close together to one another you find the rich, the poor, and everyone in between. I have come across this in other places before, but I never cease to be amazed by the sight of a goat/dog/cow-covered pile of rubbish, against the backdrop of a high-walled extravagant mansion house. Or by the endless, muddy, open-drain alleyways that end in a snazzy apartment block complete with armed guard and barbed-wire fence.

Hopefully over the coming week or so I'll get a chance to explore further - including a chance to leave Kampala for the first time to join a World Bank Institute project visit to Wobulenzi, a couple of hours' drive from the capital.

That's all for now, hope I have something more exciting for you next time, and enjoy the weekend!

The Ibex has landed

2009-06-03T00:07:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone,

Not much to tell yet, but I thought I should post something to say that I arrived safely in a warm and sunny Kampala on Monday night, having almost missed my connection flight in Brussels - luckily my auxiliary reserves of Mediterranean 'hutzpah' got me through the transit queue just in time!

I am staying in an unexpectedly nice hotel in a very smart part of town, so I can safely say I haven't really had a taste of the 'real' Kampala, whatever it may be... and I have not yet had the time (nor the confidence) to venture out and explore on my own. Having said that, all the people I have come across so far have been very friendly and welcoming.

My first day at work included only half an hour in the office to meet my new colleagues, before going into a full-day meeting with an illustrious crowd of Water and Sanitation Sector people who I am sure I will come across very often in the coming months. Today is a national holiday so I am taking advantage of this free time to catch up on some light reading (WaterAid Uganda’s 5-year country strategy, for example) before being taken on a tour of housing options later this afternoon.

So, as you can tell, so far so good! Thanks to all of you who have left comments, you made me smile! Please keep them coming!

Kampala-Bound

2009-05-29T00:00:00.000-07:00

Hello dear people, thank you for dropping in on my new (alhough not so imrpoved) blog. As most of you know I'll be heading off to Kampala VERY early this coming Monday, until the end of October. I will try to update this as often as I can, and will endeavour to resist the temptation to include too many posts about water-quality testing this time round. No promises though!

Hugs to all of you and keep in touch!